Monday, February 10, 2014

What am I doing here? A day in the life of me.


Most volunteers ask themselves this very question on a daily basis.  While all of the villages and/or towns that we serve in have requested a volunteer, often our ‘jobs’ are less than well-defined.  In this spirit, I will attempt to paint a picture of what my typical day might look like.
My kitchen, where delicious things are made


Nap time


















7h       Wake-up to the melodic sounds of screaming goats and crowing roosters
7h30   Go for a run/walk with Mathilde, on the way back stop and saluer (greet) people and play with puppy friends
8h30   Make breakfast, enjoy it while reading or journaling
9h       Do dishes, sweep house, clean (it is a total faux pas not to sweep out one’s house daily – and in any case, it needs it)
10h     Morning activity: clinic, garden, market, school, laundry, fetch water, etc.
12h     Make lunch, repos (i.e. nap – it’s HOT!)
14h     Afternoon activity (see morning activity)/walk around town (one must remember, being seen and greeting people is the NUMBER ONE most important thing in village)
17h     Back home, start dinner, eat, socialize with neighbors
19h     Sun set – back home by dark if I’m not already, hang out in concession
21h     Bed time!
  

Neighbors
Puppy play time

Goats!





Making igname pilé, i.e. pounded yams
In bed with Mathilde, protected by our much-appreciated mosquito net
As you can see, most of my activities, at least as of yet, are not necessarily structured around what one might call “work”.  It’s more about the day-to-day business of living and integrating myself into the community.  And, technically, we are here just as much for cultural exchange as for development work, so I try not to focus too much on “American” definitions of productivity.  However, at times, the lack of structure can make motivating oneself a challenge and the pace of life can make accomplishing even the littlest of tasks a trying experience.
Women's soccer team

Nonetheless, speaking of projects, here’s a little preview of what we have in the works here in Logozohè.  I’ll update you with their progress in the future.

On the way to the gardens
Gardening on the banks of the Klou


Moringa


 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 










  • School garden at the local primary school
  •  Rabbit-raising project with the women’s group
  • Moringa (a very high-nutrient tree) nursery, in conjunction with nutrition classes, at the maternity clinic
  • Planning for a community pump to help with our water scarcity problem (right now women and children can waste half their day waiting in line at the one working pump in village, plus the up to 1k walk to and from the pump)
  • Working with women gardeners in the area on compost and organic pesticides
  • Mentoring a local girl in séconde (i.e. sophomore in hs) (however, as fate would have it, she just got pregnant, so we are in the process of weighing her options regarding school, etc.)
  • Women’s soccer team

Ethiopia: December 2013


Laura and me outside a church

I may be thousands of miles from home, but I am very fortunate to have a cousin (if not close) at least on the same continent as me.  And to help detract from holiday blues away from home, we both decided to hop on planes and meet up in Ethiopia for Christmas and New Year’s.  And it was perfect timing.  After three months of village time and 24/7 Beninese integration it was nice to have a break and touch base with someone who has even more African experience than I do.  And all I had to do was show up – Laura, with her fancy internet access, planned the rest.

Camel love!

Car caravan on salt flats

Ethiopia was great – the perfect mix of roughing-it ecotourism and take-your-breath-away vistas interspersed with boutique hotels, wine drinking and a relaxing spa day.  And the contrast between Benin and Ethiopia was immense.  Where Benin is loud, colorful, in-your-face, and tropical, Ethiopia was more subdued and mild-mannered with an arid, and at this time of the year, decidedly colder climate.  Roads were in working condition, people’s normal speaking voice wasn’t a yell, and their tourist industry is much more developed.

All the way to the top...?
Queen of the world



















Here are some highlights from our trip: 
    Sun set outside of our room
  • Church visiting in the Gheralta area of the Tigray region.  And, no, this wasn’t your average church-hop.  Imagine hours of (fairly intense) hiking/rock climbing, at 6,000 feet above sea level under a hot desert sun to get to churches that are literally chiseled out of mountain sides and date back to the 4th century A.D.  Churches we saw include Abuna Yamata Guh, Mariam Korkor, and Daniel Korkor.  While there we stayed at the Gheralta Lodge – worth the visit to Ethiopia in and of itself with sweeping views of the canyon below.
    View from on top with our guides
  • Trekking in the Afar region, which included: the Danakil Desert, the lava lake of Erta Ale volcano (one of the world’s five active volcanoes), the Asale salt lake (and camel caravans) and the Danakil Depression, the lowest point of terra firma in Africa and the hottest place on earth.  It is also here that we saw the Dallol sulphur springs (my camera unfortunately died before this point, so sorry, no photos).

    Laura on her way to Mariam Korkor
  •  Lalibela, an extremely important destination for Orthodox religious pilgrimages.  Here we saw the church of St. George, or Bet Medhane Alem and Bet Emmanuel, a UNESCO world heritage site.  The only thing that detracted from this part of the trip was a random bout of food poisoning from the upscale pizza we had eaten the night before.  But I mustered and made it to all the sites on our list.  There was also a little mix-up with our hotel for this night, but it all worked out for the best as Lalibela Lodge where we ended up was super cute with wonderful Ethiopian food.
    Driving into the sun
 
  •  Our last night was spend in Addis, the capital, which also happened to be New Year’s.  To celebrate we treated ourselves to massages and pedicures at Boston Spa (run by an American) and went out for sushi.  A perfect ending to a wonderful trip.





Other notable awesomeness included cold temperatures (oh, how I’ve missed you) with nights in the 30s and 40s, beautiful scarves, great customer service (which, from my personal experience, is hard to find in West Africa), and camels and donkeys galore.  I can’t wait for our next cousin-vacation: next stop Tanzania!

Hard at work harvesting salt

Donkeys: the new raccoon

Desert on the way to Erta Ale

Volcano! (Watch out for the caustic smoke!)

Camels at rest

Bovines!
Peek-a-boo!
 
Camel caravan carrying salt bricks back from the salt lake